Western Trip 2014 - Trip out & Arches and Canyon Lands

Ohio to Wyoming

It rained most of Tuesday night before we left but by Wednesday morning it was just a drizzle so we finished loading and got on the road a little after 8.  The trip to Fairborn was smooth with not a lot of traffic and the rain let up as we moved south.

We pulled into Wright-Patterson at 11:45 and were surprised at how different things were as compared to previous visits.  The grass (really weeds) had not been cut in a long while and the office was not manned.  We called the posted number and made a ‘reservation’ and were assigned a spot.  The park is about three quarters full and it appears that a number of units belong to active duty stationed at Wright-Pat.

After a light lunch we called the Rush’s (longtime friends from our volunteer days) and headed to Kettering to see then.  We took Lilly along as we knew it would be a long time before we got back to the fifth wheel.  We had a good long visit and then went to a local famous (in the Dayton area) pizza place.  After pizza we went back to their place for a round of Skipbo and fresh peach cobbler.

By the time we got back to the base it was late and only one gate was open.  We had to drive through most of the base and some of the senior officer housing to find the road to the campground.

We awoke to rain in the area so we did not rush to get started for Illinois.  We had some very hard rain and I70 from the Indiana line to Indianapolis is terrible!  We finally ran out of rain and decided to take a couple of back roads to Paxton.  We saw many, many wind turbines and a number of anti-wind protest signs.  We arrived at the Woolridge’s about 1:45 – Central time.  After some maneuvering we parked the 5^th wheel in front of their ‘pole building’ house. 

They live in a 40X60 pole building that has about 2/3rds of it converted into a 3 bedroom house. The balance contains their 5^th wheel and serves as a garage and shop.  It is a unique facility and very functional. 

After a tour of the place we got in their car and they took us on a tour of their town, where they lived before moving into the pole house and to visit, close-up a wind turbine.  These turbines are big and those blades are so very long.  They do make a sound as they turn so slowly in the wind. 

No, the tower is not leaning.  It must be an optical illusion having to do with the clouds and angle from which the photo was taken..it is straight as an arrow.

Mary had prepared a full dinner with green beans, mashed potatoes, salad and Floyd grilled pork loins and we added some Ohio sweet corn to the dinner. 



After dinner Floyd had a church meeting and Jon worked at getting our GPS unit back on track.  The GPS is only showing the south east US.

Saturday morning we awoke to rain and thunder. So we dug out the rain gear to pack-up.  As we had not unhitched there was not a lot to do except for the hose and electric.  Floyd was up and waiting for us in the garage end. 

Mary told us this was the first real rain they had had since late June – guess the Rainmakers tag follows us even when not with the group.  We had rain for about the first two hours of the drive, and then it let up.  The GPS is working…some so we shall see if it is fixed.  As is our custom, Judy had prepared a breakfast to eat on the road. 

We ran out of wind farms and into some hills as we approached the Mississippi near Davenport, Iowa.  As we crossed the Mississippi, the GPS stopped displaying a map.  It would show direction and North, but no roads.  Will try to work on it more tonight when we stop west of Des Moines.

When we got into the Timberline Campground we could see a number of out of state “working” RV’s.  There must be some work nearby to attack these out of state workers.

We were directed to a pull thru site that was just barely long enough to get the Open Range in the slot.  No real place for the truck and we had not more than gotten ourselves situated when in pulled a 44 foot bus.  His hitch for this toad was in the road at the rear and the front bumper was into the road in front.  Talked to them, hoping they too were only in for one night, but that was not the case.

It was hot and humid and we turned on the overhead fan too.  Could see that something was wrong and shut it down.  Found that one of the screws holding a blade on had dropped out.  We looked but could not find it so when we went out to fuel, drove the 3 miles into a little town and found one that would work at a little mom-n-pop hardware.

We finished some leftovers watched a bit of TV.  The WiFi is so-so but will try to get an update on the GPS.  It started to down load the new maps so we left it on and went off to bed to tiny raindrops on the roof.

Saturday it was, yes raining, but not hard more like a slight drizzle.  We packed up and backed up into the road behind to move as far to the right as we could as we pulled forward and made the left turn into the road.  Judy watched the right side and as the RV made the turn the back left just cleared the bus’s mirror.  So off we went on a shorter drive for the day.

When we stopped at a rest area before leaving Iowa we called the next campground to check on reservations.  “Jeff” took our information (no credit card) and said they would have a site for us.  We pulled into this old campground about 1.  We were in for a real surprise.  Though the park was nearly full, we were guided to a nice pull-though site that was really three separate sites.  Jeff said we could park anywhere in the row.  From the brochure we learned that Jeff and his wife Amanda had taken over ownership of the park earlier this year.  They were really working to make it nice.  The WiFi was great and the restroom facilities very clean and well kept.  This is their Storm/Tornado shelter.

Called Garmin and the support person told us that the internal memory was not sufficient to hold all the new map data.  He said we should inset a micro SD card and try the download again.

After a snack it was off to the nearest Walmart to pick up a few things (Micro SD Card for one).  While there, called Taki (old AF friend) and arranged to meet him in the next town east for dinner.  We met at “Chances R” and had a nice meal and visit. We made arrangements to meet the next morning at his place and go into Lincoln to check on Judy’s Nook.  The first time she tried to use in on this trip it would not boot up or start.  There is a famous quilt museum attached to the university and Judy was going to visit.

Before bed logged on to the Garmin site and began the download of the new maps.  It took several hours but we now have maps of the US and Canada plus a lot more data about places along the way.

We picked up Taki before noon and drove to Lincoln; first stop the Barnes & Noble store.  The woman there tried to get it going (doing the tricks we had learned from the Internet) and said she could do nothing but did give us a number to call.

There was plenty of time before the museum opened so Taki directed us to a Runza’s for lunch.  A Runza is a very regional chain and a Runza is a type of German sandwich.  We bought three different kinds, cut them in thirds so we all had a taste.  Good finely ground beef with a spice to it and then other things too but the bun is thin and almost like a wrap. 

The museum was not crowded and had many displays: different log cabin patterns; foreign quilts; and innovative new ideas.  They also had some newer quilts that were backed in patterns and materials.  They also had a large display of little girl sewing machines.  Most were from the US or Germany and one from Austria.  They were so unique and cute.

We dropped Taki off and got back to the Open Range about 4.  The campground had really cleared out.  There had been a lot of families in the park using the pool on a hot weekend.

Monday morning we were on the road a little after 7 for the six hour drive to Sidney, NE.  Our plan is to spend the night in Cabela’s campground and shop their store for good hiking shoes/boots before we hit the Wyoming.

On the way we stopped at Kearney to visit the interactive arch museum.  The museum’s first level (which spans the east and west bound lanes of I80) is about the Oregon Trail.  We learned that there were three different groups using the trail.  The first was the Oregon settlers, the second the forty-niners on their way to California and the last, the Mormons using mainly had carts bound for Salt Lake City.  All of this was on the lower level moving north to south.  The upper level returning to the north parking area covered the railroad, and the first cross country highway – US30. 

We also learned that Kearney Nebraska is the Sand Hill Crane capital of the world.  And all this time we thought it was Florida as they have so many too.  Every year in March and April over 500,000 sand hill cranes stop along the Platte River to refuel before continuing their journey.

It was 1:30 Mountain Time when we pulled into Cabela’s campground.  We were put on spot number one – a nice pull-through.  After setting up and giving Lilly a nice walk, we took the short walk to the store.  We looked and looked for shoes that would fit and not be too expensive.  None of the sale shoes fit either of us.  We finally settled on Merrell’s and though not on sale by signing up for one of their credit cards we got $25 off each pair.  Think we did something similar six years ago and finally after years of not charging anything Cabela’s closed that account.

After filling the Ram with fuel, we stopped at a restaurant recommended by a clerk at Cabela’s – Buffalo Bill’s Sport’s Bar.  The meal was just so-so and we headed back to the Open Range for a little TV and then to bed.

We were on the road a little before 8 for the drive to Buffalo.  We took US 77 north from I80 to Scott’s Bluff where we picked up 26 into Wyoming and I25 North.  About 10 we called David and he was surprised we would arrive so soon.  Initially we were thinking of maybe Wednesday or even Thursday. We turned off I25 on to Trabing Lane and found the roadway was no longer a rough – just one step above dirt highway, but a smooth asphalt road with center and edge lines.  Certainly made the drive to Trabing Knoll a lot better. 

After our greetings and some chat we decided to park the Open Range at an angle beside the house.  But to do so, it was either drive by the barn out into the rough pasture to turn or try to make the turn-around in front of the house.  It took a lot of maneuvering but finally we got parked and all set up.

Lilly seemed to remember the place and was quick to find the rabbits’ hiding place under the wood pile behind the barn.  She chased a couple out into the tall grass but she stopped before going under the fence to the pasture next door. 

Judy and Lilly top the big hill leading down to David’s.

Pat had dinner (lasagna and salad) and soon it was dark and we headed off to bed.

Wednesday was a ‘down’ day after travelling for a week.  We walked the prairie several times with Lilly and took care of some things around the RV.  Just a nice relaxing day as Thursday promises to be a busy one.

We were up early – as usual – and all loaded into David’s truck for the drive to Sheridan, 37 miles north of Buffalo.  When you add the distance from 23 Trabing Knoll Lane to Buffalo it’s about a 50 mile jaunt.  First stop was to pick-up one of the ATV’s that was repaired - it was not shifting properly. Then it was off to Home Depot, we all had lists of items to pick-up.  The next stop was Walmart and then to Albertson’s for more groceries.  While the others went in Albertson’s Jon stayed with the truck as David had bought a TV and it was in the bed with the ATV.  It was past lunch time when we got home.

We’ve seen plentyof deer and some Antelope in the pasture below the house and barn.  Several have big racks.  Lilly enjoys the long walks.  She stays close so we don’t have her on any leash.  Lots of critter smells and other things for her to sniff.

Spotted two antelope just outside. These pictures were taken out the widow of the RV.  In the first one the antelope was not more than 25 feet from us.  Had to be careful and take the shot through the screen.  The second picture was taken from the bedroom window and he was further away and munching the green grass over the septic tank.

Friday Morning we decided to do some exploring in town ourselves.  We parked and walked the main street, hitting several shops and stores and by then were hungry.  On the recommendation of one of the local’s we ambled into “Up In Smoke” BBQ right on Main Street.  Had a nice lunch and met some folks from New Castle PA and the waitress was originally from Salem, Ohio.

Of course no stop would be complete without visiting at least one quilt shop.  The one here is a bit sparse but did see an interesting little wall hanging.

There are a number of wall murals and sculptures in Buffalo.  Here is one of a cowboy wrestling a calf.

Saturday was another down and fix-it day.  Judy worked on some sewing projects and helped David get his satellite connected in their fifth wheel.  They hope to head south to visit a friend in SW Wyoming.  Jon finished putting the truck tailgate back together and back on the truck.  It had come apart in several places and needed some major work.

We have decided to move on to Cheyenne on Monday.  We made reservations at the Famcamp at F E Warren AFB for three nights. 

Reservations were made at the Virginian Restaurant in the old Occidental Hotel in Buffalo for Saturday night dinner.  For some reason the earliest we could make was 7:30.  We rested and read most of the afternoon when a big thunder storm rolled through just as we were getting ready to leave.  Lots of wind and thunder and hard rain for a bit.  When we got to town we saw the reason for the late reservation – a big tour bus in front of the hotel. 

The decore of the Occidental has been maintained and it is full of artifacts, pictures and memorabilia.  We enjoyed our late dinner and Judy says it was the best steak she has had.

Monday morning, September 1, (Labor Day) we packed up and said our good byes and headed for Cheyenne, Wyoming.  Pat and David can now get back to their normal routine and we will soon begin our canyon and high plains tour.

Wyoming and on to Utah


The drive from Buffalo to Cheyenne was at times boring and other times spectacular.  At times the horizon was nothing but a long flat high plateau and other times just rolling like hills.  Then there would be an out cropping of mesa’s and wind carved stone hills.  Wyoming has raised the speed limit on I25 to 80 and people cruise by at more than that.  We are content to set the cruise at 63 and just move along.  We stopped at a nice rest area for a little break about an hour out of Cheyenne.  As it was Memorial Day, the local VFW was providing free drinks and cookies to travelers.  


The entrance to FE Warren is just off I25 at exit 11 but the Famcamp is deep inside so it is a long drive.  The camp is set in a low area full of cottonwood trees – and less than 100 yards from an active railroad track. Some of the trees in here are hundreds of years old, by their size.

This is an interesting AFB in that there is no runway.  The base is the main base for a squadron or two of missile's - underground sites spread out over south Wyoming and western Nebraska.  We see a number of Security Police on base.  In fact the base has not a squadron of Security Police but and entire group - think it is three squadrons - two security for missiles and one for police.  The base was originally an army post but when underground missiles came in, the Air Force took over.  The installation is full of old and new red brick buildings.  The original army housing along the parade ground stand three stories and many are duplexes.  There is also an active archaeological site on base not too far from the campground.

Tuesday we decided to head to town, but first we made a stop by the BX only to find it closed.  But the beauty shop was open so Judy got a hair trim.  We will stop back on the way back in to base.  Just next to the parking lot we spotted a small heard of antelope.  found out later that there are several herds living on base so you really have to pay attention when driving.

We found a spot to park near the old Union Pacific Depot and caught a ride on the city trolley.  This is a sculpture of a horse in Depot Park – all made out of ‘junk.”

We were taken all around the city and had many sites, locations and history explained.  A unique thing to  Cheyenne are the many big boots all over town. They are painted by local artists and each is different and unique.

One of the highlights was “Big Boy” – a 4-8-8-4 steam engine.  There were several of these engines in service up until the early 60’s.  They could reach speeds of up to 80 mph going up grade over the mountains to Salt Lake City.  This one is on display in a park and another is being refurbished.

After the trolley ride we found, yes a quilt shop, right in downtown Cheyenne.  It was a nice little shop but unfortunately may not be around much longer as the owner wants to retire.  After some shopping we went to restaurant recommended by several locals – The Albany.

 

After lunch we headed for the Wyoming State Museum where we spent several hours.  By now it was time to head home.  As the Ram was close to needing a oil change, we tried several locations and ended up at the Walmart where I took over an hour and a half – first come first served - but at least it is done.

Wednesday was a quiet day.  We did our laundry and a little shopping and made final preparations for the move into Colorado/Utah on Thursday.  The plan is to head south on I25 to Denver and pick up I70 over the mountains where we plan to spend just one night in either Grand Junction or Fruita, Colorado.

Cheyenne to Utah

We were ready to hit the road a little before 8 from FE Warren but got held up leaving the base by a very long freight train.  A main rail line runs right through the base.  At any rate it was near 8:30 by the time we got on I25 headed south.  The drive into the Denver area was different.  We could see the mountains off to the west and it was almost one continuous urban area from the state line into Denver.  We though by leaving later we would miss some traffic, but did not figure on two accidents in the city and then a fun time getting fuel just west of the city. 

The drive on I70 was beautiful as the traffic thinned out but the climbs got longer and steeper.  When we finally crossed over we were at 10000 plus feet.  There are a series of ups and downs – long downs – to where things level out around Vail.  The drive through Gleenwood Canyon was really neat – following the Colorado River.  There were no good rest stops so that made the drive a little harder on Judy and Lilly.  We rolled into Grand Junction about 3:30 and got situated in a nice little former KOA.  After dinner we drove out to fuel and pick up some milk.

We have reservations in Moab, but can’t check in until after noon and as it is only a two hour drive will take our time leaving here.

It was nice to have a lazy morning.  Even the animals enjoyed the extra time.  We hit the road a little before 10 and were back on I70 in no time.  Shortly after we crossed into Utah we stopped at a ‘scenic view’ rest area.  We did not need to use the facilities, but thought Lilly might enjoy a short walk.  The views were something else.  

 

 

Even Lilly got into the act and looked over the edge into the canyon below.

A little further up the road we pulled into the welcome center and picked up some brochures and a map.  We pulled into Arch View Campground a little after noon.  We have a nice site – full hookups – no TV but good WiFi. 

 

  After a bite of lunch we decided to make the two hour drive through the park.  Well it was a bit more than two hours and we took so many pictures and stopped to see many-many stone cropping’s. These are just a few of the pictures we took on that first day. 

 

After the ride we drove through the town of Moab to get our bearings.  Yes, there is a quilt shop but is closed on Sunday and Monday and only open until 3 Saturday.  We might make it.

After dinner took Lilly for a long walk and found a nice trail we might try while here.  It is just outside the park and called “Sovereign Trail.”  It appears to be an ATV/Bike trail but we might try it.

As the weather is calling for rain near Bryce Canyon on Sunday and Monday, we may just stay here and extra night and move on Monday rather than Sunday.  It is a nice park and some beautiful views.  Judy has a nice area to walk Lilly and she (Lilly) enjoys the new scents and sights.

Saturday morning we were off at an early, well for some maybe, hour to do some hiking and see some more in Arches before the temperatures rise.  We had picked a hike, the Windows, yesterday so that was our first stop.  We hiked up to the main arch, took some pictures than decided to do the ‘primitive’ trail down around the back of the arch. It was a nice hike over stones and some sand.  The trail was marked by fallen/dead cedar branches and cairn (rocks stacked on each other).  Again it was too much to describe so maybe these few pictures will help.  We took many-many more pictures but just can’t upload them all.

We stopped and hiked a short distance on the ‘Park Avenue’ trail and a nice lady took our pictures.  She is a local and they come to the park quite often.  She said it is particularly nice in the winter after a snow.

After lunch at the RV and some rest time it was off to the big city.  Moab is really a tourist town as there are ATV and Jeep tours and raft/canoe rides advertised all over town.  Lots of tourist shops and yes we did stop by the town’s only quilt shop.  Like the shop in Cheyenne, this one is for sale.  After a walk through town we stopped by the only grocery and picked up a few items.  Just like back home, you get a better deal if you have one of their cards – which we don’t have so we shopped very carefully.

There is NO TV unless you have satellite so we’ve been trying to stream Netflix.  Generally we have been doing okay but sometimes we get the ‘buffering’ and have to wait.  If the WiFi is strong we can get through an entire show without any hitches.

Sunday morning it was off to Canyon Lands National Park.  Both Arches and Canyon Lands are celebrating their 50^th birthday this year.  It was a 25 mile drive through Forest Service/BLM and Open Range grazing land into the park. After a stop at the visitor’s center where we picked up some hiking information, we began our drive. Canyon Lands is rightly named.  It is full of beautiful canyons and buttes and mesa’s.  The Green River meets up with the Colorado in the park and it really is green, well has a green cast from all the minerals leaching down from the canyon walls.

We did a 3 mile hike to the Murphy Look Out this was a hike at 6000+ feet – we were not winded but the sun was hot.  It seemed as though we took forever to get to the end.  This is part of the trail – looking back towards the beginning.

The vistas and views were something else.

We drove to another look our area for more pictures.

Our last hike here was the Mesa Arch and again something else.  It was over half a mile of rock steps and sand and stone but there it was – a small arch and the deep canyon bottom below.  With all the crowds it was hard to get a good picture but this little fellow was along the trail.

All morning it looked like rain and we could see it in the distance, but only a few drops fell on us.  Before our start, when Judy was returning from Lilly’s morning walk there was a beautiful rainbow over the cliffs west of the campground. The sun on the mountain behind us looked like fire.

This little church in the campground was used in several western movies

Next we move on to Panguitch, Utah to visit Zion NP and Bryce Canyon.